Head gasket tips (2003)

While changing my head gaskets over the last few months, I have obtained advice from some senior members of the SOC and others, and thought it might be worth summarising their tips for the benefit of any other "amateur" who is contemplating the same job:

1. I obtained nickel plated studs and thick head gaskets supplied from Tony Hart. (Studs part number 149080NP £6-50 ea + VAT and thick head gaskets 218981 £29-50 ea + VAT)

2. Tony advised using Wellseal gasket sealer on all surfaces - apply with a brush and leave to dry for 5 mins. For mail order, I got it from www.vintech.co.uk in Wales. Note it is made by Stag Ltd.!

3. Several experts advised doing a dry-run first before assembly. I did it twice and came up with the idea of using Rawplugs up-ended in the holes at the front of the timing case to help align the heads without using short studs (there was insufficient room with the engine in the car).

4. I used a short hook made of thin garden wire to hold the gasket in place while aligning the heads prior to inserting the studs.

5. I coated the studs with Copper-ease on the final assembly to assist future intervention (hopefully not too soon).

6. Tighten the inlet manifold prior to torqueing the heads; then torque the heads in two stages, first to 40 ft-lbs and then to 55 ft-lbs. Note there appears to be conflicting advice on this. In the Practical Classics book: Triumph Stag Restoration, it is recommended to tighten the heads before the inlet manifold. Since mine has been leaking for most of 25yrs, I was determined to cure it!

7. If installing a new water pump, run the engine initially with the radiator plug removed to avoid pressurising the graphite bearing until it has bedded in and seated properly.

8. When checking the water pump, a reasonable amount of slop (1/16th inch) on the water pump spindle in the end bushing (in the block) is acceptable.

9. To avoid total disaster by dropping a nut etc into the timing case or other orifice, its best to keep all open holes plugged with suitable bits of clean cloth, especially during reassembly.

10. And finally.......I read somewhere that it is important to have the felt washer on the dipstick in good condition to assist priming the oil pump, I believe. Mine was missing!

Note, I have just run the engine up to temperature and will re-torque tomorrow (6th April).

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